This is a men's hip-length café racer jacket, drafted at a 114 cm chest, slightly shaped at the waist, with a 66 cm back length. It has an exposed separating zip down the centre front with leather facings, a 4.3 cm band collar with a snap strap, and two slanted vertical zipped welt pockets. The two-piece sleeves bend forward and close with zips at the cuffs. Buckled side adjuster straps and a full lining with a centre-back ease pleat complete it.
On Ourlette you get your own copy of the pattern, drafted to your body measurements or to a standard size. You can change it by hand or with the AI, check it in a 3D preview and follow a 12-step illustrated sewing guide. The seller, Jolski, receives every coin of the price.
- 17 pattern pieces, including lining, facings, welts and pocket bags
- Heavy woven fabric: cowhide, lambskin nappa, heavy faux leather or waxed cotton canvas
- 4 closures: centre-front zip, collar snap, pocket zips and cuff zips
- Difficulty 5 out of 5, for experienced sewists
- 12-step illustrated sewing guide
- Drafted to your measurements or a standard size
Fabric and notions
The pattern is made for heavy woven material. Suggested fabrics are black cowhide (1.2 mm, smooth), black lambskin nappa (0.9 mm), heavy faux leather with a woven backing, or black waxed cotton canvas as an alternative.
Notions: a heavy nickel separating zip, a 15 mm nickel collar snap, black metal pocket zips, cuff zips, 1 cm leather stay tape or fusible tape, a metal hanging chain, a 2.5 cm nickel buckle, and leather glue or double-sided leather tape.
How it is made and how hard it is
The difficulty is 5 out of 5. The jacket has 17 pieces: front, back, upper and under sleeves, band collar with interfacing and strap, facings, a full lining, pocket welts and bags, side adjuster straps and buckle tabs. The sewing guide has 12 illustrated steps.
For leather, use clips instead of pins, a leather needle and a long 3.5–4 mm stitch. Open the seams with a mallet and glue them down; do not iron. Topstitch about 6 mm from seams and edges. Lay the pieces on the hide avoiding thin or marked areas, and cut the two fronts from matching parts of the hide.
Lining, hem and details
The lining is cut to the full finished length with a 2.5 cm ease pleat at the centre back. Sew the lining hems to the leather hem allowances so a small fold of lining sits above the leather edge and lets the jacket move. The hem allowance is printed at 2.5 cm; add 0.5 cm when cutting for a 3 cm hem.
The hanging chain and label go on the back neck facing, 1.5 cm below the neckline, as marked on the piece. The collar strap is sewn to the left front end of the collar, also marked.
Fit and sizing
The pattern is drafted for men and shown at a 114 cm chest. On Ourlette it is drafted to your own measurements or a standard size. The sleeves are cut roomy, 41 cm around the upper arm. If you want a closer sleeve, take about 1.5 cm out of each sleeve seam at the upper arm, tapering to nothing at the elbow, and take the same amount off the sleeve cap so it still fits the 59 cm armhole.
Questions
What fabric should I use?
Heavy woven material: black cowhide (1.2 mm), black lambskin nappa (0.9 mm), heavy faux leather with a woven backing, or black waxed cotton canvas.
Is it a pattern for beginners?
No. It is rated 5 out of 5 for difficulty, with zips, welt pockets, a collar strap and a full lining. A 12-step illustrated guide is included.
Which sizes are available?
It is drafted for men. You get it drafted to your own body measurements or a standard size, and you can adjust it by hand or with the AI.
How do I print it?
Printing the PDF at true scale needs a Library, Maker or Atelier plan for a design drafted by the AI pattern maker, in the Maker or Atelier plans. Formats include A4, US Letter, A3, Tabloid, copy shop sizes and projector, with a test square and a page map.
How do I get the pattern?
Create a free Ourlette account and buy it on the Marketplace for 60 coins. The seller, Jolski, receives every coin of the price.
